(And other stories from Porthcothan
Bay)
4am on a
Saturday morning is never pleasant, however going on holiday and getting up at
that time makes it just about bearable. The car had been packed to the gunnels
the previous evening, so it was a simple case of waking the cat up by turning
on the lounge lights (always a fun game, she looked really pissed off!), a
quick cup of tea and off we went! We were back home 10 minutes later to get
Carols coat that she’d forgotten to pack! I was very good, I didn’t swear, well
not out loud anyway.
The journey down
to Padstow took just over 4 hours, including a quick stop at Taunton services
on the M5 as my Lary needed cleaning out. The drive was by far the longest I’ve
undertaken in some time, and was probably a bit too far as when we arrived in
Padstow to get some breakfast I was totally knackered and was having problems
controlling my breathing. The result was four HME filters used before 11am
which is the most I’ve used in an age. The problem was that I’d only bought a
limited number of filters down with me, so it meant I was going to have to be
very careful for the rest of the week and if possible, wash, dry and recycle
used filters. (I’ve since tried this, and it does work so long as you ensure
the filter is totally dry otherwise you breath water into your lungs which is a
great feeling). As well as my breathing being a problem, my shoulder was also
agony as it had been in roughly the same position for the whole drive.
Breakfast revived us somewhat, eggs, bacon and wonderful coffee.
Padstow was
getting pretty packed by the time we left at 11am. We felt quite undressed
without a dog in tow, or having children with posh names wearing shabby chic
surf wear in town. A quick trip down to the bike hire shop and we were booked
to do the Camel Trail on Wednesday. The journey from Padstow to Porthcothan is
only about five miles, but being stuck behind a double decker bus on the narrow
lanes made for an interesting trip. At least the bus being in front of us meant
that we didn’t have to reverse into any of the passing spaces. We were lucky
when we arrived at Carnevas in that our mobile home was ready for us, despite
the official check in time being 3pm.
The mobile
looked brand new and was placed slightly away from the site, in a lovely
location with only seagulls and crows to disturb the peace and quiet. Laura had
asked at least three times where the sea was when we’d unpacked and made
ourselves at home. I pointed out that it was between the land and the sky, but
I think that went over her young head. To satisfy her childlike enthusiasm we
decamped down to the beach for a bracing pre-lunch walk on the sand. I love
Porthcothan Bay, even after 45 years of visiting the place I still get a tingle
of excitement when I walk around the corner of the road and get my first view
of the beach.
Since last year
the little shop at the entrance to the beach has changed hands and had a major
makeover, it looks really smart these days and still does a wonderful cup of
coffee and some rather enticing looking pasties and ice creams. The place must
make a fortune during the summer months. I sat and had a coffee on their patio
area for 30 minutes or so whilst the stalker and the kids paddled, during that
time there must have been over 50 people in and out of the shop. There was also
an innovation that I’ve not seen before. On the entrance to the beach were
litter pickers and waste bags. Visitors were encouraged to do five minutes of
litter picking on their visit. A really good idea as there are still far too
many people who think that the mythical “They” will pick up the rubbish they’re
too lazy to pick up themselves.
The rest of the
day was really just spent relaxing and getting over our early start. A rather
nice Spag Bol that I’d cooked the previous day was washed down with a couple of
glasses of Caja Roja then the annual games of Ono took place whilst listening
to the England cricket team demolishing the Windies. What on earth had happened
to West Indian cricket of late. Malcolm Marshall must be turning in his grave.
There was one
fairly amusing incident whilst I was getting ready for bed and changing my base
place over to the Lary tube. The tube of lube looked very similar to the tube
of tooth paste. I’ll leave it at that as I’m sure you’re ahead of me here.
I know that at
the time of writing I’d not been away from home for even one whole day, but I
was fairly pleased with how I was handling things. The morning in Padstow had
been a challenge. Being in a strange environment and away from the home
comforts that I’ve been used to in caring for the stoma. I’ve learnt that I
need to be better prepared and without being too graphic I need to be ready
with the tissues and sod what anyone else might think. Soon enough I’ll be back
at work. There will be meetings up in London when I need to use the train and
the tube. There will be long car journeys when I can’t rely on Carol to pull
out a fresh tissue for me or a new HME filter. Simple things like not having my
medical supplies to hand in the bathroom mean I have to think ahead of how I’m
caring for the stoma. I’m also learning to balance what I need to take out with
me when I leave home. Extra HME’s and fewer base plates etc. Getting back to
some sort of “Normality” away from being at home is actually a bit harder than
I first thought it would be.
Sunday morning
emerged grey, windy and a tad damp, as had been forecast. Max emerged grey,
windy and also a tad damp, having had a rough night with hot and cold flushes.
Breakfast of bacon, sausage and eggs just went to prove he was under the
weather as half of it went uneaten. The BBC weather forecast was for the day to
turn quite nasty from early afternoon, so whilst it was still relatively dry
Carol, Laura and I drove over the headland to Constantine Bay and left Max sleeping
off his fever. I hadn’t been to Constantine for a number of years, it really is
one of the forgotten gems when it comes to North Cornish beaches. Perhaps not
looking at its best of a grey and windswept morning, but miles of golden sand
and rockpools to explore hold a certain degree of magic that never fades. A
lazy afternoon was spent back at base listening to the radio and reading.
Sometimes you don’t actually need to “Do” anything, kicking back and relaxing
can be just as good as doing a bungee jump over a crocodile infested river. 4G
is a bit of a luxury in this part of the world, at the campsite I can get a
very intermittent wifi signal via BT Wifi, usually when I’m stood on one leg
and right arm at 75 degrees to the ceiling. So, it was with some surprise when
I was stood in the middle of the beach at Constantine that my phone went “Ping”
and the elusive 4G symbol appeared. One of the messages received via Facebook
was from Sidney. Our early evening was arranged with a meeting on Porthcothan beach (If wet, meet in the pub!).
For the last
few years when Carol and I have been going to warmer climes for our holidays
I’ve always managed to get away with packing a minimum amount of clothing. A
couple of pairs of shorts, t-shirts, one smart shirt, you get the picture. I
think when I was packing for this break I must have been in tropical mode. One
hoodie, and one pair of long trousers, other than that I’m in “Hot Holiday”
wear. Sunday was cold, and when I soaked my only pair of shoes on the beach I
had to spend the rest of the day in flip flops whilst my trainers dried out and
stank out the bathroom. (I’ll have to rely upon the comments of others as to
the whiff of my trainers as whilst smell is slowly coming back, its working on
“nice” smells first). I’m trying to save my only pair of long trousers for our
booking at Rick’s on Friday, knowing me if I wear them beforehand I’ll probably
fall in the sea! It could well come down to raiding Max’s wardrobe and nicking
a pair of track pants.
The roads
around this part of Cornwall are generally speaking quite narrow with large
hedges blocking off a decent view ahead of you. Whilst walking from the
campsite to the beach to meet Sidders we always kept to the right hand side of
the road so that we’re facing the oncoming traffic, and if safe we’ll pull
right into the side of the road to allow larger vehicles to pass by. We’re
careful when we’re walking, I’m afraid that the driver of the VW coming up the
hill from the bay wasn’t quite as careful, as when he passed by Carol he
managed to clip her shoulder bag which was only hanging perhaps 5 inches from
her body. She wasn’t hurt but the driver didn’t even acknowledge that he’d
clipped her despite me waving at him as he passed very close to me too! We
managed to make it down to the beach without further incident at which point
the coastal mizzle came down with a vengeance and soaked us all to the skin!
Whilst walking back up to the sanctuary of the pub we saw in the flesh, (or
should that be fur?) the only and only Sidney Thompson. I’d mistakenly insulted
him deeply last week by calling him a Jack Russel, he’s actually a proud and
noble Kromfohrlander (Google the
name, interesting history to the breed) a quick hello and we retired to the pub
whilst his assistant gave him a quick run around the beach. After around 4
years of following each other on Facebook it was really good to put a face to a
name whilst chatting over a rather decent pint of Doombar. Sidney keeps his
assistants on their toes but was happy enough to relax sitting on the lap of
the #Stalker whilst his dutiful assistants stoke his ears, rub his tummy and
risk his wrath by wagging his paw! All too soon it was time for Sidders to
disappear for his afternoon tea with his new tennis balls and for his four new
friends to make the damp trek back up to the campsite and an evening in the
Jolly Rogers eating lasagne, fish and chips and chicken burger and chips!
Another early night followed, all this fresh air was doing us good.
Tuesday was a
cracking day, with one small but important blip. The day started overcast but
warm. Carol and I decamped to the nearest large(ish) supermarket in search of
the elusive Jam Doughnut. I’d had a craving since we arrived on Saturday. The
current Mrs C. had singularly failed to satisfy my demands, but had promised
that a visit to Tesco’s would be the cure. She lied!! Despite a thorough search
of the “So Called” supermarket there was no sign of any jam doughnuts, I
couldn’t even find my substitute sugar fix of a custard doughnut! This was
surely a conspiracy being played out against me? Had Devon banned the import of
doughnuts in retaliation to Cornwall refusing to supply pasty’s? Had the
minions at Tesco in Padstow heard I was about to deprive them of all their
sugar based pastry products!! I left the “Not so” supermarket only slightly
consoled by the purchase of a box of rough Spanish red wine which might
possibly dim the memory of licking the sugar off my lips.
The day got
better after this AWFUL episode.
The sun came
out so we walked down to the beach to catch the lowest tide of the month
(Monday was a new moon) which meant we could get all the way around the
headland to parts of the beach usually not accessible. A very pleasant hour or
so as spent splashing around in the rock pools and generally enjoying the
delights of the Cornish summer. I decided I was in need of a refreshing fruit
based beverage so left Carol and the star crossed lovers to the beach and made
my way up to the Tredrea Inn at the top of the bay. This is the only proper pub
in the bay and over the years it’s gone from a really good eatery to a down at
the heel dive, or at least that what it had become last year. I’m glad to
report that whoever now owns the place has spent a bob or two on it to make it
look half decent again. The choice of ale was pretty good, with St Austell’s
and Betty’s on tap. When Carol eventually joined me on the decking
As the weather
was much, much better that forecast we decided to take an early evening trip up
to Trevose Head, this is where the lighthouse is based and views across the
Atlantic are truly wonderful on a clear evening
I’d forgotten
how noisy a tin roofed caravan can be when it rains. At some ungodly hour when
it was still dark the heavens opened and it threw it down for 10 minutes or so,
but by the time we woke around 8am the sun was shining brightly, albeit with a strong
wind blowing. It was truly a lovely day. A cooling breeze, bright sunshine and temperatures
in the mid 20s, so another day on the beach was in order. When I first started
to come down to Porthcothan with my parents some 48 years ago one of the games
of choice was for my father to make me run around the beach chasing a tennis
ball when we were playing beach cricket. When I was in my teens it was my turn
to make my father run around, and then when Max was old enough, it was his turn
to chase the balls over the beach. I seemed to have forgotten that I’d recently
had fairly major surgery and that my shoulder was shagged when we set up the
stumps on the beach. Batting was ok, and it took a charge down the wicket for
Laura to bowl me behind my legs, then it was my turn to bowl. What a twat I am
at times, I can’t get my shoulder up beyond about 125 degrees at the moment, so
why on earth would I think I could bowl a tennis ball? I tried, I failed and it
hurt like heck! I spent the rest of the first beach test behind the stumps
nursing my shoulder and eventually had to retire hurt to the sanctuary of the pub
for an invigorating pint of Betty’s. Lesson learnt, don’t think you’re still 23
and vaguely fit. You’re now pushing 55 and falling apart at the seams!
The rest of the
day I felt pretty rough. I’ve probably pushed things a bit far over the first
three days of our break. Lots of walking, running around on the beach and
probably not enough resting up. We went into Padstow early in the evening with
a plan to walk up past the War Memorial and down to the beaches on the estuary.
Well I managed to get up beyond the memorial but was flagging big time by the
time we reached the beach and needed to turn back and rest up whilst Carol, Max
and Laura continued on for a bit further. They went for a walk along the cliffs
at Porthcothan after dinner as it was such a mild and clear night, but I
bottled out of it and stayed in the caravan to write this blog and rest up.
Originally,
before I’d had the operation, I’d planned that Carol and I would go abroad for
this break. I’m now glad, with the benefit of hindsight, that we stayed in the UK.
Tuesday was really warm and I struggled, I can only imagine what I’d have felt
like if we’d been in the heat of the Med or the Canaries.
So, having
decided that I’d take things easy, on Wednesday we’d hired bikes to cycle the
Camel Trail, will I ever learn!
Luckily
Wednesday started overcast and a bit cooler as we arrived in Padstow to pick up
our bikes and head down the Camel Trail in search of the legendary, and so far,
well hidden Cornish Jammy Doughnut! The plan was to cycle all the way to
Bodmin, about 12 miles from Padstow. Whilst the trail was almost pancake flat
it was busy with walkers and families cycling when perhaps the children were a
tad young to be on their own bikes. The rules of the road prevail, keep left
and give way to walkers. Some people needed to be reminded with a quick ring of
the bell to get out of the way. The scenery along the way was very picturesque,
with the estuary on the left hand side and wooded hillside on the right. Our
first port of call labout 5 miles from Padstow was Wadebridge where we stopped
off at the Mad Hatters Coffee Shop (No relation to the one I drink at in
Reading) for a refreshing cup of coffee and sadly no JAMMY DOUGHNUTS!!! But
they did have the best “Art” on top of a coffee I’ve seen in a long while.
Back in
Padstow, with the bikes safely returned our thoughts and our stomachs turned to
lunch. Padstow has, unfairly in my view, earnt the nickname Padstein after all
the eateries that Rick has opened in the town. However, there are numerous
other great places to eat too, which have all probably benefitted from the
famous chefs involvement with the town. A new place to us at least is the
seafood bar he’s opened up next to his fish and chip shop. It’s very much set
out like the champagne and oyster bars you see at airports, with stools set
along the counter of the bar and in this case the prep area for the fish. Two
stools were dragged up, menu’s perused, and lips smacked. We settled for the
seafood platter and a bottle of Muscadet. The platter included crab, oysters,
mussels, scallops and prawns, all served with walnut bread and dips.
By the time Max
and Laura made it back from Bodmin Padstow was overflowing with people. I think
the rest of Cornwall must have been empty, there wasn’t room to swing even a
Corn Bunting. I felt quite sorry for the poor delivery drivers who had to drive
round to the far side of the quay. It seemed that people were oblivious to the
fact that a van was trying to pass them. I didn’t feel quite so sorry for the
twat on a mountain bike who was trying to ride through the crowds, I don’t
think he was overly impressed when I gave his back tyre a shove when he stopped
dead in front of me. Maybe next time he’ll have a bit of courtesy, but as he was
dressed in the full, matching lycra outfit, I suspect he’s a born again
knobhead who just thinks he has the right to ride where he wants to regardless
of other people.
I was really
proud of Carol today. I don’t think she’s been on a bike for some considerable
time, but she managed the return trip to Wadebridge today with only a sore knee
and sore backside! On the way back I left her to it for a couple of miles
whilst I sped ahead leaving small children and tandem riders in my wake. I
think I said the same when we came back from the Canaries in May, but if
Berkshire had a system of car free cycleways I’d be on the bike every day. It
feels safe, it’s fun and its damn good exercise.
Needless to
say, by the time we got back to the campsite we were all feeling the effects of
the day. The young ‘uns disappeared for a “Sleep”, Carol sat on the sofa
quaffing a large G ‘n T, whilst I prep’d the sauce for our meatballs and pasta
dinner. So much for being on holiday……
This has been
the first time we’ve had a whole week in Cornwall for probably over 10 years,
normally we’ll just come down for three or four days. We were lucky this year
in that we only had the one day of rain, the rest of the time was shorts and
sweatshirt weather. It’s good to holiday in the UK, but by god it’s expensive
compared to say Spain or Greece. For once I’m not going to moan too much about
the cost of the holiday, if it hadn’t been for the staff at RBH I probably
wouldn’t have got to get away this year, or for any years in the future. It was
quite interesting whilst buying the ingredients for the dinner on Wednesday
evening. We went into the Tesco just on the outskirts of Padstow and after
fighting our way past the people trying to find the organic humous whilst
keeping Hugo and Petunia under control, we made our way to the checkout. The
woman who served us was wearing a headscarf to cover the effects of her chemo,
she looked at my Lary and a knowing smile was exchanged. The cancer club knows
no boundaries, be them geographic, social or economic, Blimey, that sounds so
“Up my own arse”, but hopefully you know what I mean.
Thursday wasn’t
a great day I’m afraid. I’d had two poor night’s sleep with the Lary tube
causing a few pain problems for the first time in ages. As it was our last full
day together we’d already pre-planned to go to Boscastle for the morning. Some
of you may remember the name Boscastle from the news on 16th August
2004 when the tow was hit by a cloudburst which had a devastating effect on the
river that runs through the village. The river burst its banks and flooded the
whole of the lower town leading towards the harbour. At its height the flood
waters reached over 8 feet. Cars were washed into the harbour, never to be seen
again. Houses were ruined, livelihoods vanished overnight, but somehow or
another there were no fatalities, thanks largely to the efforts of the
Coastguard Helicopter crews who worked tirelessly through the late afternoon
and evening.
The journey
from Porthcothan to Boscastle took nearly an hour thanks to being stuck behind
a wide and slow moving caravan all the way until the Wadebridge bridge where I
could blast past it. I was feeling pretty well jiggered by the time we parked
up and had to spend five minutes getting Lary cleared out before we could
wander into town. By the time we’d been
through the NT Shop and sat down for a coffee I was beginning to feel rough as
a badger’s backside. I was struggling to clear my throat and could hardly talk
at all. So, I decided that the only sensible option was to let the others explore
up towards the headland beyond the harbour walls whilst I returned to the town
to rest up. Luckily there was a pub which had a pleasant beer garden and was
serving a pint of local cider, it would have been rude not to partake.
An hour or so
later Carol returned and joined me in a pint of fermented apple juice. I was
now at the stage where for the first time in about 6 weeks I had to rely upon
pen and paper to communicate, I was getting a tad upset with myself too. A
quick text to Max and Laura who were touring the Witches Museum asking them to
come back and our day out was I’m afraid over. I felt bad about curtailing the
fun of everyone else, but I really was feeling rough. By the time we got back
to the caravan all I was fit for was a quick bite of lunch and then some much
needed sleep whilst the others went for a walk along the cliffs and to the
beach.
My mood wasn’t
much better in the evening, despite having watched the 20 / 20 TMS 60th
anniversary special. We were walking down to the Tredrea Inn when two lycra
clad cyclists came around a bend, heads down and not looking where they were
going. They just missed Laura and Carol and took exception when I remonstrated
with them. They continued to cycle away which was probably just as well as I was
in the mood to knock the block off the particularly gooby shoite if he’d had
the balls to back up his stupid attire. Cyclists deserve to be respected on the
roads, but they also need to understand that respect will be withdrawn if they
act like arrogant cocks. We arrived at the Tredrea with me in a by now steaming
mood. A queue of at least 10 people were waiting at the bar with one bar staff
serving. A second member arrived, and asked “Who’s waiting?” my croaked reply of “All of us are waiting” got a giggle
from the queue, but she then disappeared into the back of the pub again without
bothering to serve anyone. By this point I’d had enough, turned tail, told the
others that I was off and walked out of the place. It was back to the Jolly
Roger for a lovely lasagne and pint of Padstow bitter. The Tredrea needs to up
its game again I’m afraid.
The day really
finished on a high as I even managed to get into a stupid row on Facebook on a
travel page I follow. I responded to a post that I thought was a bit daft.
Instead of turning my phone off I responded and replied and responded and
replied. Eventually bed won the battle and a full stop could be put at the end
of a shoite day.
Friday was the
day that Laura was going back home, she had another holiday to get back for so
we dropped her off at Newquay station for the 5 hour trip back to Reading. That
left Max and I to help Carol celebrate her 55th birthday at Rick
Steins Bistro for lunch. We’ve been three of four times over the last few years
and always had a good meal. This year was no exception, despite a screaming 6
month old baby who’s parents luckily decided that there was no way she was
going to stop crying, so the departed without lunch from what I could gather.
Carol has discovered a new favourite drink prior to having lunch, it was a
Hendricks Martini, a tad dry for my tastes but the #Stalker could have probably
downed a pint of the stuff. All three of
us went for fish and shellfish soup as a started, god it was tasty. Max had
whole plaice, Carol devilled mackerel and I choose hake with a beure blanc
sauce with samphire. Three very different dishes, but all with the same end
result, clean plates! A really nice touch was when the puddings came out, Carol
had ordered Cornish Cheese and the waitress had put a candle into half a grape
as a birthday cake! I declined to sing Happy Birthday I’m afraid
Reflections –
It’s been a
good week. Plenty of exercise, plenty of food, plenty of sunshine. Plenty of
hints that I’m far, far, far away from being anywhere near 100%. Being 4 hours
away from home by car is probably a better idea than being in a sunshine
holiday and having to rely on an E-HIC card to get the treatment that I might
need. It’s been great to get back to the Cornwall that Carol and I have loved
for as long as we’ve known each other. Our first visit was I think in 1982,
we’ll keep coming back until one or the other can’t push the other down to the
beach in a wheel chair, hopefully a fair few more years yet.
The next stage
of recovery is around the corner. I’ll soon be going back to work and seeing
how I manage to cope on a day to day basis.
Finally, I
thought I’d give my Trip Advisor reviews of the various eateries we’ve been to
in the week :
·
The
Basement (Padstow) 4*
- Great breakfast, good coffee, friendly service.
·
Porthcothan
Bay Stores (Porthcothan) 3*
- Good coffee, very friendly service, let down by very expensive pasty’s!
·
Tredrea
Inn (Porthcothan) 3*
(Increased from 1* last year) Much improved, but let down by lack of staff.
·
Jolly
Roger (Porthcothan) 4*
Good quality pub grub at decent prices.
·
Mad
Hatters (Wadebridge) 5*
The BEST coffee I’ve tasted in an age, really friendly staff, very clean.
·
Steins
Fishery and Seafood Bar (Padstow) 5*
Superb food, great service, lovely location. Not cheap, but you get what you
pay for.
·
Farmers
Arms (St Merryn) 4*
Good quality food served in a decent atmosphere with decent staff.
·
St
Petocs Bistro (Padstow) 5*
Love this place. The food was superb as always, staff attentive but not OTT.
Not cheap.
As always,
thanks for reading.
To Carol, Anna and Max, thank you for making it worth while having holidays.
To be
continued……….
#Shoulder2Shoulder